- Q & A
April 1991 Newsletter
Wines evaluated last month: 269 Rejected: 228 Approved: 41 Selected: 2
What do you get when you cross a great year for Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, a superb win¬ery and a fabulous mail order wine club? Lucky! The year: 1985. The winery: Jekel Vineyrads, The club: your Wine of the Month Club. A friend of a friend of a friend who owed a favor was able to arrange this month's domestic selection and you are all the benefactors. We were in total disbelief when they told us we could feature this wine at our price. Please taste early, this one will move very fast.
Our import this month is one of the few french wines where the name of the wine is not only the name of the region but the name of the grape as well. From the famed Loire valley of France, we bring you Marquis de Goulaine, 1989 Muscadet. We have been watching this wine through each vintage and when the 1989 came to us, it was a "must do." It turns out that the winery also feels that this is one of their best vintages. Enjoy!
INSIDECabernet Sauvignon, 1985. Jekel Pg. 2
Muscadet, 1989. Marquis de Goulaine Pg. 3
Member Inquiry Pg. 4
Tasting Notes & Cellar Notes Pg. 5
Adventures In Eating Pg. 6
Wine & Gift Order Forms Pgs. 7/8
Membership in the Wine of the Month Club is open to anyone with an interest in and an appreciation for superb wines...and excellent wine values. Membership is FREE. For info, write: Wine of the Month Club, P.O. Box D, Arcadia, CA 91066. or call (818) 445-8281 … FAX (818) 445-8361
CABERNET SAUVIGNON, 1985. JEKEL Ca-bur-nay Saw-veen-yawn
This month's domestic selec¬tion has to be the bargain of the century! This is Limited Series wine that we can all enjoy.
The Jekel Vineyard was origi¬nally planted in 1972, the year WOMC was founded, so it is, like us, no new-comer to the industry. Back then winemaker Bill Jekel, with his twin brother, Gus, plant¬ed 140 acres in Monterey County. Another 190 acres was added in 1983, the same year in which Eng¬lish judges awarded top honors to one of Jekel's Cabernets, against some of Bordeaux's finest, in an internationally publicized London tasting.
One of the key factors in the quality of Jekel wines is their "mi¬cro-climate". Marine winds from Monterey Bay dominate the sum-mer making it one of the coolest regions in California in which pre¬mium wine grapes will ripen to full maturity. Harvest here is extended 2 to 4 weeks beyond other premi¬um growing districts. This slow maturation allows the grapes to de¬velop complex flavors while re-taining high natural fruit acids. Re¬sultant wines exhibit well-defined varietal character in a fine balance of fruit and acidity.
Many tasters consider Caber¬net Sauvignon "The King of Va¬rietals." There is due reason for such an regal accolade. First, it is the primary grape of Bordeaux, the most famous region in the world for production of expensive, collectable vintage wines. This grape, when carefully grown and vinified, yields wines that are subt¬ly complex and balanced, retaining a fresh and forest-like character of woods in spring, even when very old. It produces the finest red wines in California. Jekel en¬hanced the complexity of this wine by adding 5% Cabernet Franc, another classic Bordeaux grape, noted both for its lightness and herbaceously aromatic charms.
Our selection offers an extraor¬dinarily inky-dark, ox-blood color, accurately foreshadowing what is to come. Deep currant, blackberry' and wild forest scents (mush-rooms, earth and wood) exude from the glass. It is marvelously big and rich in the mouth. Appetiz¬ing acids in textbook balance with gobs of fruit (classic blackcurrant predominates) are all underlaced with the correct amount of tannin. The finish is smooth and dry with blackberry and a hint of violet in the aftertaste. Serve at room tem¬perature with roast beef or lamb; or barbequed steak.
Cellaring Notes: Drink now and through 1992.
Reviewed by Larry Tepper#491A Regular Price: $12.00/ea. Special Member Price: $6.50/ea. Member Reorder Price: $5.99/ea. 50.01% disc. $71.88/case
MUSCADET, 1989. MARQUIS de GOULAINE Moose-ka-day, Mark-ee day Goo-lane
Few wineries (or brands, or companies in general, for that mat¬ter) can boast the extensive heri¬tage which the Marquis de Gou-laine winery is heir to. The origins and history of the Goulaine family and its wine are, one can easily say, an inextricable part of the leg-end of the Loire Valley, its famous chateaux and its prolific vineyards. Their Chateau de Goulaine has a drawbridge and moat, turrets and towers, medieval tapestries and stone stairways where, once-upon-¬a-time, knights in armour rattled up and down.
Wines have been made along the Loire River ever since the Ro¬man occupation of France. The Muscadet district there has three subdivisions. The most famous of these is Muscadet de Sevre & Maine, which name derives from two small rivers that run through the vineyard area about 10 miles south of Nantes. As the Goulaine family owned most of this region practically without any interruption for well over a thousand years, they are currently considered the oldest family in Europe holding vineyards under their name.
The wine is made by Robert, who is the 11th Marquis of Gou¬mine. Grapes which have reached the proper sugar content are crushed and pressed immediately to maintain the correct sugar / acid ratio. Unlike many other French wines, no additional sugar is add¬ed to the fermenting juice. After vinification, the wine rests on its "lees" (spent yeast cells) until the following March when it is bottled ready to be enjoyed fresh. An unu¬sual note: the word "Muscadet" refers both to the grape and to the region in which it is grown. These grapes yield a typically fresh and delicately fruity white wine with a distinctive bouquet and a certain amount of crispness, best enjoyed in its youth.
Goulaine reports 1989 as one of the greatest vintages ever in the Loire Valley. This wine has a very pale green-gold color and a fresh, somewhat flowery bouquet that has a hint of musk in it. On the palate it exhibits very tangy, re¬freshing acidity. It is medium-bodied, crisply dry and has a le¬mony, melon-like flavor that has a trace of licorice. It finishes clean with the lemony taste lingering. This wine should be served chilled with raw oysters or sauteed sole, shrimps or scallops.
Cellaring Notes: Excellent through 1991.
Reviewed by Larry Tepper#491B Regular Price: $8.50/ea. Member Reorder Price: $6.49/ea. 20.00% disc. $77.88/case
Last week, at a charity wine tast¬ing, I overheard a conversation of two enthusiasts. Though rather interesting in scope it lead me to believe that the two characteristics "aroma" and "bou¬quet" are often used interchangeably when further investigation shows a distinct difference between the two. The following is a reprint of the 9/89 newsletter with PK Sr.'s response to the exact question.
Paul: You keep using "bouquet" and "aroma" at different times in your wine descriptions, and sometimes you use both terms for the same wine. I must assume there is a difference. What is the difference?". H.S. San Jose. CA.
You assumed right! There is a dif-ference.
Both terms pertain to the smell or the "nose" of a wine. (No... the wine does not have a physical nose, it re¬fers to the smell you perceive of that wine in your nose!)
Aroma is the smell of the wine that originates from the fresh mature grape. It is usually expressed as "fruitiness ", and often strongly char¬acteristic of the grape variety or varie¬ties.
Bouquet is the smell that develops in a wine in the vinification process and in the maturation process when it is in contact with wood during barrel ageing, and during bottle ageing, as a function of time.
Aroma is more pronounced and dis-tinct during the wine's youth. As the wine matures, the aroma diminishes in dominance and becomes a single contributing element to the developing bouquet of a wine along with the oth¬er factors of wood, tannin, bottle age, and natural oxidation. With premium wines, it may disappear, leaving only the complex odor of a mature bou¬quet.
Aroma is a result of vaporization of certain elements found in grape skin. The process of fermentation enhances the development of the aroma of the particular grape variety.
Bouquet, on the other hand, is a re¬sult of slow oxidation of the wine's fruit acids, esters, and alcohols pro¬ducing other aromatic components that are a result of wood and/or bottle ageing. Other factors contribute to the intensity and makeup of bouquet. Soil, weather, grape variety, storage containers and conditions.
Bouquet is a more evasive and com-plex than aroma. Wood ageing has a lot to do with the "complexity" often mentioned about a mature wine. Bottle ageing adds to this.
As one learns and remembers the aroma of various young varietal wines, and then patiently waits for them to mature and tastes them again, one becomes familiar with the differ¬ence. That is what it takes to really identify the elements that contribute to each of these two sensations of smell.
The difference is pronounced, and they should never be confused with each other.
In the beginning, until you acquire the skill of detecting the difference, refrain from commenting about young wines (1-2 years old) as having a bouquet, unless you are sure. Like¬wise from commenting about aged wines (5 years +) as having an aro¬ma, unless you are sure!
"Aroma -Baroma" who cares? Just enjoy!
WINE OF THE MONTH CLUB CELLAR NOTES
A report on how previous Wine of the Month Club Selections are faring with age. Obtained from actual tastings of wines under cellar conditions and/or vintner, importer or wholesaler surveys.
Apr. 1987 R. Cabernet Sauvignon,'82.Boeger. Peaked. Use. W. Vouvray,'85.Dom. des Girardieres. On it's way out. Use.
Apr. 1988 R. Zinfandel.'84.Hallmark Cellars. Peaked. Use. W. Chardonnay,'86.LaJolie. Austere. Use.
Apr. 1989 R. Fonset Lacour,'85.B&G. Slight complexity. OK to keep or use. W. Chardonnay,'87.Ch. Julien. On it's way down. Use.
Apr. 1990 R. Rioja,'85. Banda Azul. Has softened nicely. Use. W. Fume Blanc,'88. Lambert Bridge. Has complexed it's fruit. Use.-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Adventures in EatingBy Rosemarie
Recently I took a cake decorating class from the pastry chef at Disney¬land, George Geary. Not only was the class fascinating, it was a delicious experience as well. After decorating the cakes Mr. Geary had made, which ranged from a classic white cake to a rich chocolate truffle cake, my class¬mates and I were then treated to a gen¬erous piece of each. My taste buds did a lot of tingling that day. Yet, I have to say that my favorite dish of the day came as a surprise. At lunch time, Mr. Geary's assistant prepared the most scrumptious pasta from a recipe of George's "cooking teacher" friend.
After I finished my small plate of this savory pasta, I craved more. Un¬fortunately, one pound of pasta doesn't go very far in a class of 18. Needless to say, I never got seconds.
I would not confess this to George, but instead of rushing home to practice my "rosebuds" and "shell borders," I raced to the market to gather the ingredients for "Creamy Lemon Chive Pasta with Chicken and Asparagus." I made the pasta for din¬ner that night, and contentedly in¬dulged myself to three helpings!
Creamy Lemon Chive Pasta with Chicken and Asparagus4 4-ounce chicken breasts, bone Less
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons olive oil
12 ounces linguine, dried
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 lb. asparagus, peeled, trimmed, cut into 1/2"" pieces
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 large egg yolks
1 cup parmesan cheese, freshly grated
2 tablespoons chives, chopped
2 teaspoons lemon rind
In a skillet, place the chicken, lem¬on juice and olive oil. Saute until tend¬er and cut into chunks when cool.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to boil and cook the linguine un¬til al dente, according to the package directions. When pasta is finished, drain in a colander.
Cook the asparagus until it is crisp and tender by steaming or microwav¬ing with a small amount of water. Set aside.
Combine the cream and egg yolks in a liquid measuring cup and beat with a fork.
In a large saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the cooked lingui¬ni, chicken, asparagus, and the cream-yolk mixture. Lightly toss to combine the ingredients. Acid the parmesan cheese, chives and lemon rind. Con¬tinue to stir until parmesan is just melted. Serve for lunch or dinner. Try to keep under three helpings! Enjoy.
For free membership information write or call Wine of the Month Club® Discovering superb wines since 1972. P.O. Box D, Arcadia, CA 91066 (818) 445-8281 FAX (818) 445-8361
Order Form491A Cabernet Sauvignon,'85. Jekel Reg. Price: $12.00 50.01% disc. $ 71.88/case $ 5.99/each
491B Muscadet,'89. Marquis de Goulaine Reg. Price: $ 8.50 23.64% disc. $ 77.88/case $ 6.49/each
391A Sauvignon Blanc,'89. Cask One Reg. Price $ 5.99 38.40% disc. $ 44.28/case $ 3.69/each
391B Rioja,'86. Bodega Montecillo Reg. Price $ 8.49 29.44% disc. $ 71.88/case $ 5.99/each
291A Zinfandel,'90. Winterbrook Reg. Price $ 6.49 20.00% disc. $ 62.28/case $ 5.19/each
291B Semillon/Chardonnay,'90. Penfolds Reg. Price $ 8.39 20.00% disc. $ 80.52/case $ 6.71/each
MMT Maximum/Minimum Thermometer Taylor-Tells variance in temp. zones. $ 19.95/ea. $ 2.50 shpng
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Wine Gift Order Form
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