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M?traalja, Hungary's largest historic wine region, is located at the foot of the M?tra Mountains in the northeast part of the country. It's a half hour ride from Budapest and next to the famous Eger wine region. Wine growing began in the 11th century in these mountains. The soil, climate, and topography create a microclimate ideal for producing aromatic white wines with fine acidity. M?ty?s Szoke has been winemaking since the 1970s, which is quite early in the modern Hungarian wine industry. Szoke wines are served in more than one hundred restaurants in Budapest. The wines are also well known abroad; almost half of the production is sold throughout Europe. Szoke white wines are produced in temperature-controlled fermentation tanks so that the grapes' full brilliance of fragrance and flavor remains and is allowed to develop in the wine. The harvesting, done by hand, is focused on quickly bringing the ripe grapes into the winery. The cellars are deep under the M?tra hills. They are very old with some dating from the time of Napoleon. Son Zolt?n, who is a college-trained winemaker, has advanced the cellar work with the use of new technology. The winery produces about 16,000 cases each year. The goal of the winery is to be the leading wine producer in the appellation. Szoke is a specialist in white wines. These white wines are ranked among Hungary's best. The winery uses grapes from many interesting varietals, including Olaszrizling, Sylvaner, H?rslevel?, Ottonel Muscatel, Tramini, Kir?ly Le?nyka, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and Irsay Oliver. This 2008 Irsay Oliver from Szoke is a real beauty. It has a lovely fragrance in the nose, and perfectly refreshing apricot and peach flavors on the palate. No wonder-the parents of this native Hungarian grape are Gewurztraminer and Muscat. Both varietals contribute their best characteristics to this new grape which is quickly becoming Hungary's most popular white wine. January 2010 Limited Series Newsletter (.pdf)
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