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The Domaine de Rieux vineyards were purchased in 1963 by the Armagnac producing Ch?teau de Tariquet. This famous property had belonged to the Grassa family since 1912, and a new generation, Yves Grassa, had just taken over the year before. Seeing the bulk market for surplus production of Armagnac base wine drying up, they decided to diversify into winemaking. Grassa pioneered the conversion of these inexpensive white wines from Armagnac into a clean, fresh, intense fruity style of tremendous appeal. Even consumers of the world's finest wines gravitated to these simple but appealing offerings. In the early 1980s, he employed the now-famous Denis Dubourdieu as a consultant, and together they developed the novel technique of cold, anaerobic "maceration pelliculaire." Simply put, they fermented the grapes in very cold stainless steel tanks producing minimal oxidation, and preserving the overwhelming fresh fruit components that make these wines simply delicious. Thanks to this imaginative approach and an obsessive attention to detail, the venture became an overnight commercial success story. The techniques pioneered here have been copied all over Europe to improve the standard of light, dry white winemaking. Despite the growth in size since, high standards have been maintained, and the wines continue to impress. Care is taken right from the start, with grape varieties matched to suitable soils around the estate, and vineyards managed meticulously. Once picked, the grapes are destemmed and immediately placed in airtight tanks to protect from oxidation. Cold maceration gives extra complexity before a gentle pressing. The fermenting wine is then left to settle for a couple of days before a slow, controlled cool fermentation that can last a month. This is the key to the freshness, purity and aromatic intensity of the wines. All these are preserved by careful storage at low temperature, away from oxygen, until bottling. This selection is a careful blend of Ugni Blanc and Colombard, two rather bland and unexciting grapes when grown elsewhere. Here, however, they rise to heights not even dreamed of in other areas. Perfect with a shrimp salad or poached salmon. January 2012 Limited Series Newsletter (.pdf) Limited Series January 2012 from Wine of the Month Club on Vimeo. |
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