1978-08 August Classic Newsletter

August 1978 Selection of California Wine

DAVIS BYNUM CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1975

In 1965 Davis Bynum founded and opened the Davis Bynum Winery in Albany, not far from the campus of U.C. Berkeley. Bynum began by buying bulk wine which he blended and bottled under his own label. In 1971 he purchased 25 acres of vineyards in the Napa Valley from which he obtained grapes for wine production at Albany. In 1973 By­num added an additional 82 acres in Heald­sburg to the operation, and the present day winery is found at this site.

The Cabernet Sauvignon grape, from which this wine was produced, is largely responsible for the great Chateau bottled wine of the Bordeaux. Transplanted to California it produces some truly fine wines when grown in the cooler valleys of the northern coast. Just as in France, it is frequently blended with small amounts of Merlot or Cabernet Franc to soften the wines.

This Bynum Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example of what the cabernet grape can produce in California. It has a fruity nose, deep color, med­ium body and a smooth finish. Serve at room temperature with red meats or hearty dishes.

$5.25/fifth $56.70/case

August 1978 Selection of Imported Wine

KLOSTER DISIBODENBERG NAME RIESLING 1974 QBA

The Nahe is a tributary of the great Rhine River of Germany, which it joins at Bingen, opposite Rudesheim. The Nahe Valley is quite properly considered as a separate viticultural district and has over 4,000 acres in vineyards. The Kloster Disibodenberg vineyards are located in the historical village of Odernheim which is in one of the oldest wine producing regions along the upper Nahe. The vineyards cling to steep hills and the grapes are consequently all hand picked. The wine takes its name from the near­by cloister Disibodenberg, which dates back to medieval times.

The wine is produced from the Riesling grape which predominates the entire Nahe Valley. Its origin is uncertain but it has been grown ex­tensively in the area since Roman times.

This Kloster Disibondenberg qualitatswein has a characteristic ries­ling nose and a clean refreshing taste, with the Nahe region character. Enjoy it chilled with light foods.

$4.39/fifth $47.42/case

....THANK YOU, VAN DELANEY,

wine editor of Los Angeles Maga­zine, for your correction. We will check our source of information more closely in the future.

We do appreciate, however, your fair appraisal of the wine we featured, despite the fact that some of the background information was a mistake.

The heart of the matter is that we start our selection pro­cess of the Cellarmaster Wine of The Month Program by tasting. We do not pay attention to labels. When we find the wine we want, we then seek the information. Our selection process is a very picky one and we are always looking for value versus quality (it is not uncommon for us to have eliminated 15 to 30 contenders before we make a decision).

We are pleased you follow our program and are flattered.

To our members,... we recommend your column, as one of the substan­tial columns in city magazines.

FROM THE SALTY PELICAN IN BAYWOOD PARK

A quick jaunt to see how Ed­ward Coppola was coming with his wine cocktails recipe book, found us enjoying them in his fantastic little gourmet hideaway 13 miles west of San Louis Obispo at the southern tip of Morro Bay.

Ed has just released a unique little book directed to the bar tending trade with over 40 recipes of soft cocktails made with wine. They are unique and delicious. Try the Salty Pelican before din­ner and the Baywood Fog after din­ner, they are my favorites. His lemon chicken is a delight.

If you're interested in a copy we have order forms in the shop or write to Salty Pelican Wine Spec­ialities - P.O. Box 6213, Los Osos California 93402. Better still stop by and get one at the Salty Pelican. Ed's restaurant motto is: "Mood, Food and Relaxation." (And the background music is soft, rather than some of the stuff you hear around). Tell him Paul Kal­emkiarian sent you.

● JOHANNISBERG RIESLING " EARLY HARVEST" Napa Valley 1977
Grapes harvested late September an average 20.5° Brix; A departue in style from our earlier Rieslings, the light body and crisp fruitiness result from harvesting a portion of the crop at substantially lower must weight than expected at full matur­ity, much like the "Kabinett" level wines of Germany. Should be drunk during the next 3 to 12 months. $4.75/fifth $51.30/case

● PINOT NOIR Stanton Vineyard (Yountville) 1975
This wine is the result of a crop-thinning experiment done in an attempt to learn more about the effects of reduced crop yield on color and flavor in this difficult variety. One-third to one-half of the clusters were removed and dis­carded immediately following ver­aison (berry color change), reliesing somewhat the strain of ripening a full crop. One-third of the vine­yard was left unthinned as a control. The grapes remaining on the "thin­ned" vines matured earlier than nor­mal and, following fermentation, yielded a wine considerably more in­tense than our earlier bottlings from this vineyard. $8.75/fifth $94.50/case

● CABERNET SAUVIGNON, Napa Valley 1975
Grapes harvested in early November, aged approximately 18 months in new 60 gallon Nevers oak barrels, blend­ed with 5% Merlot and bottled in August, 1977. Ripening of Cabernet Sauvignon was slowed somewhat during the atypically cool 1975 growing season, but on November 3rd we be to harvest mature fruit of excell­ent sugar/acid balance. Coloring pigments in wine tend to be more stable when ripened in cool weather, accounting for the remarkably deep purple hue of this wine. Properly cellared, it should improve for 10 years or more. $5.75/fifth $62.10/case

● SYRAH, Napa Valley 1975
Grapes harvested October 22 from the Wheeler Vineyard, St. Helena; aged 18 months in French oak barrels and bottled in June 1977; made entirely from the true Syrah grape used in the production of Cote Rotie and Hermitage, and totally unrelated to the California Petite Sirah. Very limited availability. $6.00/fifth $64.80/case

CHATEAU MONTELENA CHARDONNAY 1976
Harvest Date – October 9-12
Sugar at Harvest – 22.5° brix
Bottling Date – February 1978
Release Date – June 1978
Reducing Sugar (by weight) – Dry
Total Acid – .84
Optimum period for –1979 - 1981
consumption

Who would have believed that something this good could he a result of our recent drought! In 1976 we were unable to purchase the usual quantities of Char­donnay grapes from our established growers, so we decided to crush a small quantity of this variety from the Santa Maria area of San Luis Obispo County. The flavors are clean and crisp in keeping with the high acid developed form this cooler climate. The varietal flavors are enhanced, not overpowered, by the flavors extracted from French Limousin oak. Enjoyable in its youthful crispness, we expect drama­tic changes in the next two years as the wine develops richness.

JOHANNISBERG RIESLING 1977
Harvest Date – Sept. 24 - 27
Sugar at Harvest – 23.6° brix
Appellation – 43% Napa;
– 57% Sonoma
Bottling Date – March 1978
Release Date – June /978
Reducing Sugar (by weight) – 1.0%
Total Acid – .77
Optimum period for – late 1978
consumption to early 1980

Beginning with the 1977 vintage, we will he listing the specific amount of sugar left in the wine at bottling. As in past vintages we harvested mature grapes (23.6 brix) and arrested fermentation at 1.0% reducing sugar. The old fermentation allows for the maximum development of the varietal flavors, while the residual sugar adds depth and roundness. Un­usually big and complex for a California Riesling, we encourage the consumption of this wine with a meal to fully appreciate the complexities it has to offer. From past experience we recommend early consumption, beginning in the fall of 1979 until the beginning of 1980.

THE SUMMERTIME ROSÉS

For that summer picnic at the beach or the Hollywood Bowl - try one of the current crop of the dry roses.

California winemakers, looking for a lighter nine than the full-bodied reds, learned that a limited fermenta­tion with the skins produces a clear bright red wine, light enough to see through, beautifully brilliant in the glass. In addition, this short con­tact with the skins produces a very fresh, fruity wine, with the varietal characteristics still very discernible. They are much drier than the grenache roses, making them delightful as a thirst quencher. They tend to be fruitier than the white wines, thus ideal companions for fresh fruit or fruit salads. Serve them well chilled, as you would a white wine.

In my opinion, the Shop has Southern California's best stock of dry varietal roses. I can endorse any of their current stock:

Zinfandel Rosés
Estrella River Vineyards
Buena Vista

Gamay Rosés
Robert Mondavi

Petite Sirah Rosés
Mirasson (Petite Rosé)

Cabernet Sauvignon Rosés
Simi Cabernet
Monterey Vineyards
Llords and Elwood
Firestore
HMR

The Chapter is not planning to have a Tasting Seminar in August.

Al Hausrath, Chapter Director