Bordeaux, 2016. Chateau Bernadotte

The classic adage on Bordeaux is that the soil changes with every step. Since it's been said for so long, we've never heard anyone challenge it. After thinking about it, we thought we'd do some checking. The next operative question would be, "How much?" To that, we have found no answers.

Obviously, there are broad differences between appellations. But sometimes, not as much as is thought. Take the case of Chateau Bernadotte. It is in the Haut-Medoc, which houses the most classified growths in Bordeaux. It is very close to Pontet-Canet and Lynch-Bages, two of the finest there is, but still it is only labeled as Haut-Medoc.

Winemaker Hubert de Bouard would like to change that, but unfortunately, he can't. What he has done, however, is make the world take notice of his wines, which cost less than one-third of the others and receive the same scores and accolades. Of course, it doesn't hurt that he is also the owner of Chateau Angelus, a Grand Cru Classe property in Saint-Emilion. The 100 acre vineyard is comprised of basically half Cabernet Sauvignon and half Merlot. That is close to the mix in Pauillac, where three of the five First Growths reside. Our selection could easily stand beside them.

First, and foremost, our selection comes from the outstanding 2016 vintage. Careful maturation of the grapes and barrel aging for more than one year brings out the intense boysenberry and wild cherry essences matched with earth and saddle leather. This wine pairs perfectly with grilled tournedo beef or lamb sausages.

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