Gruner Veltliner, 2018. Bruno M

Gruner Veltliner, 2018. Bruno M

Item #: C1022W1
Vintage: 2018
Varietal: Gruner Veltliner
Vineyard/Appellation: Austria
Color: Very Pale
Nose: Pineapple
Palate: Lime, Guava
Finish: Lovely Grip
Rating: 95
Cellaring/Serving Suggestions: Now thru 2023/Seafood, Shellfish/11.5% Alcohol by Volume

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Our selection is actually produced by a German winery who apparently crossed the border into Austria to partake of that country's most celebrated grape, Gruner Veltliner. The winery is owned by the Mo-Rhe-Na Wine Exportation Association founded in 1982 for the expressed goal of bringing many of the great German estates to the rest of the world.

We're glad they did and especially glad that they brought this astounding Gruner with them. It is one our favorite wines in the world. When we first encountered this grape, we were taken by its secure ripeness, yet gripping acidity. Upon further investigation we discovered that it was grown in the Burgenland region, the warmest area in the coolest country. That made all the difference in the world.

It was first discovered in the mid-18th Century and thought to be akin to an obscure grape called Savagnin grown in the Jura appellation of France. That theory has now been dismissed as ampelographers discovered in their search an actual Veltliner family of which Gruner is the only surviving varietal. It wasn't a mainstay here until companies like Mo-Rhe-Na began exporting it.

After WWII, there were only 250 acres planted. Today there are almost 50,000. The reason is simple. The wine is incredible. It has a different fruit component than most and sports a signature tang along with the guava, peach and slightly peppery finish. This beauty's panoply of flavors would do justice to shrimp scampi, a crab enchilada or salmon with a sake/soy glaze.