Vermentino, 2020. Giunco

Giunco is made by Cantina Mesa, founded in 2004 by Sardinian native Gavino Sanna who had a very successful career in advertising but wanted to go back to his roots in his home state. Trentino native Stefano Cova is the winemaker, whose winemaking roots go back several generations.

Sardinia is one of the great wine secrets on Earth. Most people don't know any of the names of the grapes here because they are mostly indigenous to the island. While part of Italy, it acts more like its own country. It has its own dialect, indigenous grapes, and even when it uses grapes from the mainland, they rename them. One particularly important uniquely Sardinian grape is Vermentino. Grapes grown in the Gallura district were the first to be classified as DOCG, the highest designation in Italian wine and the first DOCG of Sardinia.

Though closely associated with Sardinia, Vermentino is actually from the island of Corsica, but the Sardinian version has become so famous that it has eclipsed its roots. The grape was first mentioned in 1676, then grown in Piedmont. It has travelled the world from Australia to France and even Brazil, but nowhere is it as revered as here.

The organic grapes are hand harvested and fermented in colder tanks to preserve the freshness of the fruit. It is then rested before bottling. The result is a classic rendition with redolent apricot blossom and peach, which would match a seafood soup or grilled salmon with fervor.

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