Moulin-A-Vent, 2020. Vignobles Bulliat

The 6th generation of winegrower in the family, Noel Bulliat started with 10 acres back in 1978, straight after graduating from viticultural school. The property then spread to over 37 acres in the very heart of the Beaujolais region in Villie-Morgon. In 2005, his son Lo?c joined the family estate. He brought bright and creative ideas to improve the farming and winemaking technique, including restructuration of the vineyard (change of training methods) work of the soils, conversion to organic viticulture and organic certification of 12 acres in Morgon and Beaujolais Villages in 2013. The family estate now covers nearly67 acres in 8 different appellations in the heart of the Beaujolais region, and currently produces around 70,000 bottles per year.

The appellation is divided into three categories. Each reflects the quality of the wine. There is wine simply labeled Beaujolais, which is lighter in style and quite refreshing. Then there is Beaujolais Village, which has to come from areas where the wine is known to be superior. Finally, there are the Crus, which are individual villages as is our selection from Moulin-a-Vent. It translates to "windmill" which is plainly shown on the label. There are 11 Crus in the appellation and although they are all made from 100% Gamay, each has its own identity. Moulin is one of the bigger, more complex wines and is often confused with Burgundy, which is heady praise indeed.

Ours is a classic. The enveloping aromas and powerful extracts are indicative of the appellation and a far cry from Nouveau. Layers of currants and blackberry are shielded in a robe of complex spices. The finish is lighter than expected, allowing it to satisfy almost any cuisine from a spicy Indian curry to a swordfish steak with lemon and garlic.

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