Vermentino, 2019. Avivo

There are times when we like the story and times when we like the wines. The best time is when we love both. Avivo's story is one that embodies all the virtues we think should be in the commitment to making great wine. It doesn't often happen, but we love it when it does.

It begins with Ridgley Evers bringing cuttings of olive trees and indigenous grape varieties from Italy to Lodi, California in 1990. In spite of Lodi being in the middle of the San Juaquin Valley, it shares nothing with appellations both North and South of it. Lodi is 15 to 20 degrees cooler in the summer. That made it perfect.

For nearly 30 years he made superb wines and incredible olive oil. The best part was that his sales were growing faster than his vineyards. So, he and his long time winemaker, Dan Fitzgerald, partnered with the Ledbetter Family and their five generation history of superb, organic farming. That partnership also introduced biodynamics into the mix and have just become certified as such. Vermentino is one of Italy's greatest white wines, but probably isn't indigenous to it. History suggests that it could have been French and brought to Corsica and then Sardegna. There it enjoys the highest ranking in Italian wine.

The complex aromatics are enthralling. From candied fruit to ginger, peach, and pear, the wine is almost a symphony within itself. The flavors reflect the aromas and finish with a flourish beckoning seared ahi with a soy/ginger vinaigrette or fried catfish Louisiana style.

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