This is probably the most spectacular winery we've ever seen. It is built entirely underground. Instead of being pumped, which introduces oxygen, the wines are gravity fed from destination to destination until bottled. The procedure is overseen by winemaker, Matteo Chiucconi, who was born and bred in the Marche region.
There are a few wineries that operate mostly underground for that reason, but we've never seen one entirely subterranean. Of course, with that kind of dedication, you can only imagine what the wines are like. One of the significant advantages is temperature. It never gets too hot or too cold, so the amount of additional energy to improve either is minimal. Add to that a completely organic vineyard, and you are as close to perfection as conceivable.
As if that were enough of a story, then there's the grape. Lacrima Di Morro D'alba was as close to extinction you could get. In 1985 there were 2.4 acres planted in all of Italy. It was through the efforts of wineries like Filodivino, which translates to "divine thread," that this grape has seen a resurgence and now covers 250 acres in 10 different appellations of the country.
One taste and you'll understand why. It is very dark, which would signal a big, dense wine. But, it delivers a much more supple offering with flashes of wild strawberry and currant to shine on a marinated flank steak with garlic and fennel or lemon roasted lamb leg seasoned with sage and oregano.