Michele Manelli, the proprietor of the Salcheto Estate, governs one of the most successful estates in Montepulciano. He also produces a flagship wine of Tuscany, Vino Noble di Montepulciano, the borders of which lie completely within Chianti. Only grapes grown within those borders may be called Vino Noble.He also controls vineyards outside Vino Noble, from which our Chianti hails. The winery is a wonder of technology and efficiency. All the light is natural. A system of tubes reflects the light from the outside and disperses it throughout the underground structure. As a result, the winery uses 50 percent less energy than most wineries. Couple this sustainability with a 100% organic vineyard and you have a true model of efficiency.Salcheto also uses an ancient method called "governo," but in a very limited manner. The process involves separating some of the picked grapes and drying them on mats to concentrate the flavors. Centuries ago, before wineries knew how to control over-production, this method was used to induce more flavor.It can still be used in such a manner, though should be limited or the result will be a ponderous, over extracted wine. Salcheto will have no such thing.As a result, we have perfection. From the delicate scent of rose petals in the nose through to the spice and Bing cherry flavors expanded upon with touches of earth and leather it thrills at every turn through to the exciting finish.