Forbidden Gruner Veltliner, 2015. Laurenz V.

Forbidden Gruner Veltliner, 2015. Laurenz V.

Item #: V0719W1IT
Vintage: 2015
Varietal: Forbidden Gruner Veltliner
Vineyard/Appellation: Niederosterreich, Austria
Color: Gold
Nose: Jasmine, Ginger, Peach
Palate: Green and Red Apple
Finish: Very Lingering Spice
Rating: 95
Cellaring/Serving Suggestions: Now through 2023/Seafood, Light Meats/11.0% Alcohol by Volume

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Historically, Austria is probably known more for its music than it is for its wine. It's hard to argue with the quality of the music that came out of Vienna in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. It's just as hard to argue with the quality of the wines from Austria. They are no less spectacular than the music.

Most wine drinkers worldwide don't know much about Austrian wines, and that suits the Austrians just fine. They have the distinction of being the one country that consumes more of its own wine than any other. The fact is, Austria can stand next to any country in the world when it comes to making great white wines.

Their prize is their own Gruner Veltliner. It's kind of like a Riesling, kind of like a Chenin Blanc and kind of like a Viognier. What it is, though, is all Gruner, without question one of the greatest white wines made in the world. Like many countries, Austria has a regional pecking order as to the quality of their wines, and Kremstal, where Laurenz V. is located, is at the top.

Laurenz V. is named after one of the founding partners of the company, Laurenz Maria Moser the fifth, the grandson of legendary Austrian wine pioneer Lenz Moser lll (who was known, incidently, as "Grandpa Gruner"). The Forbidden moniker is a bit of Austrian humor that makes the point that, sometimes, forbidden is good.

Here is sheer wine perfection. It's only 11% alcohol, so nothing gets in the way of all the subtle nuances that emanate from the glass. Jasmine and ginger mix with apple and peach, and penetrating quince provides the middle and end. It's all Gruner, all perfect.