Gewürztraminer
Gewurztraminer, the grape that few can spell and fewer can pronounce, took its time getting here. It started out being called Traminer, named after its Italian origins dating back over 1,000 years ago. Though very much associated with Alsace, France, Gewurztraminer was actually first propagated in Italy's Tramin area, also known as Termino, ergo its name. But, it was truly the winemakers of Alsace who brought us the grape, as we know it today. Its history goes way back another 7,000 years to the Middle East, where it is a direct descendant of the oldest grape known, and probably the first grape ever turned into wine, Muscat.
While living in Alsace, Traminer seemed to be two different grapes. One part of the vineyard would produce a spicier version than the rest. These vines were then isolated and renamed Gewurztraminer, "gewurz" meaning "spicy" in German. Though spicy is the word that stuck, its flavor components are much more complex than that. It has an exotic fruit component often compared to lychee and even persimmon; but the main aroma and flavor is that of musk oil, which is the scent the female doe secretes to allure the male. No human study has been done on this, though it might prove interesting for sales.
Another interesting note here is that, unlike most white grapes, there is a slightly reddish hue to the skin. Some winemakers allow the grape musk to sit on the skin, even if only for a few hours, to pick up this hue and give a unique color to the wine. It must be grown in cooler areas, making vineyard selection very tricky, and more importantly, it is not very commercially viable; so only those who are truly in love with this grape will take the chance.
Regions:
With
few exceptions, this grape makes a simple, fruity wine with the
telltale musky, floral component it shows elsewhere, but not much
else. While there are a few standouts, it is not considered an economically
viable grape.
There
is little argument that his grape reaches its pinnacle in Alsace.
The heady, musky and floral aromas can be sensed a few feet away
as opposed to inches. Many feel that these wines are actually "too
big to eat" as they don't marry with much but them most imposing
of dishes. Styles run the gamut here from steely (though almost
never dull) to opulent to dessert and almost anything in between.
Powerful
and imposing offerings from particularly the Rheinhessen, though
some charming examples also hail from the Nahe and Pfalz.
Along
the Swiss border in the upper reaches of Friuli, this grape can
show some major stuffing and concentration approaching the Alsace
offerings at about half the price. Not widely known or seen, but
worth seeking out. Often called Traminer and at times is that different
grape. Only your purveyor (hopefully) knows for sure.
A
few good examples in Catalonia, though often blended with local
varieties.
