Les Carrieres, 2018. Thillardon

Paul-Henri Thillardon is, at a very young age, a masterful winemaker. It's got to be a gift, he has perfect pitch and his wines sing. Chenas is not far from Moulin-a-Vent, and for that reason the wines can show much of the same muscle. Paul-Henri brings you this concentration, but knows where the balance point is for elegance. They call it grown-up wine.

In 2008, at the age of 22, Paul Henri made the important decision to dedicate his work to the cru of Chenas, rather than in neighboring and better-known Moulin-a-Vent which usurps much of the notoriety of Chenas. Tilting at windmills, some say.

Then in 2010, he planted an acre of vines on a beautiful southeast facing parcel in Chiroubles, and another parcel of Viognier grapes, a variety that is not authorized in the Beaujolais rules. By early 2011, the domain covered 5.7 hectares (13.7 acres) with his Chanas vines an average of 40 years old.

As with many of the new generation, Thillardon is dedicated to organics and has taken to using horses instead of tractors in the vineyard ? la Pontet-Canet. The vineyard is biodynamically farmed - Vines are only treated with herbs and are ploughed by horse. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and see no sulfur until bottling. Vinification is Burgundian - Grapes are de-stemmed before fermentation. Long fermentation and maceration.

Reviews